Auto VIN Decoder – What Do Those Letters & Numbers Mean?
February 14, 2012 | 
Author An Auto VIN Decoder breaks down the unique alphanumeric sequence known as a Vehicle Identification Number, which is a car’s fingerprint. Each and every automobile on the road has its own 17-character VIN, and it is this identification number that is used to generate a Vehicle History Report, also known as a VIN check.
The VIN check taps into millions of DMV records and reveals all of the available history for a particular vehicle, including any hidden problems, odometer readings, ownership transfers and more. It is an absolute must for used car buyers, as it tells you everything you need to know about the vehicle.
The Auto VIN Decoder can help you understand what these letters and numbers mean, which is the first step towards ensuring that a vehicle you are considering is right for you.
Let’s break down the Vehicle Identification Number, starting with the first character. (Please note the letter “I” as in indigo, the letter “O” as in orange, and the letter “Q” as in queen are NOT found in any VIN Numbers.)
(We will use the following VIN as an example: 2FTRX18W1XCA01212)
The first character represents the country of manufacture, and can be a letter or a number, each signifying a different country. The most common ones are as follows:
(1 = USA, 2 = Canada, 3 = Mexico, J = Japan, K = Korea, W = Germany, Y = Finland, Sweden)
So using the Auto VIN Decoder in the above example, this particular car was made in Canada.
The second/third characters represent the manufacturer, also known as the make. The most common are:
(A = Alfa Romeo, B = Dodge, C = Chrysler, D = Daihatsu, E = Eagle, F= Ford/Eagle, G = All General Motors vehicles (Buick, Cadillac, Chevrolet, Oldsmobile, Pontiac, Saturn)
H = Honda/Acura, J= Jeep, L = Lincoln, M = Mitsubishi, N = Nissan/Infiniti, P = Plymouth, S = Subaru, T = Toyota/Lexus, V = Volkswagen)
So using the Auto VIN Decoder in the above example, this car is a Ford or an Eagle..since Eagle is no longer made, it is most likely a Ford.
Other popular makes use a 3-character initial sequence:
(TRU/WAU = Audi, 4US/WBA/WBS = BMW, 2HM/KMH = Hyundai, SAJ = Jaguar, SAL = Land Rover, 1YV/JM1 = Mazda, WDB = Mercedes-Benz, VF3 = Peugeot, WP0 = Porsche, YK1/YS3 = Saab, YV1=Volvo)
The fourth character is the type of restraint system.
In the above example, “R” represents hydraulic breaks using the VIN Decoder.
The fifth, sixth & seventh characters are the vehicle line, series and body style. This will obviously be different across makes and models.
In the above example, characters 5, 6 & 7 are X18: X18 is a Ford F150 Pickup 4WD Super Cab
The eighth character is the engine type.
With the Auto VIN Decoder, W represents a 4.6 liter V-8 engine.
The tenth character represents the year of the car. Pay close attention to this one:
B = 1981 F = 1985 K = 1989 P = 1993 V = 1997 1 = 2001
C = 1982 G = 1986 L = 1990 R = 1994 W = 1998 2 = 2002
D = 1983 H = 1987 M = 1991 S = 1995 X = 1999 3 = 2003
E = 1984 J = 1988 N = 1992 T = 1996 Y = 2000 4 = 2004
For the most recent used model year, 5 = 2005
In the above example, the “X” indicates that this car was made in 1999.
The eleventh character indicates the assembly plant.
In the above example, the C indicates Ontario, Canada
Characters 12-17 represent the vehicle’s unique fingerprint. It is these six digits which make every single vehicle in the world different.
So using the Auto VIN Decoder one last time, the Vehicle Identification Number: 2FTRX18W1XCA01212 represents a 1999 Ford F150 Pickup 4WD Super Cab manufactured in Ontario, Canada with hydraulic brakes and a 4.6-liter V-8 engine.
So there you have it, the Auto VIN Decoder. If you are in the market for a used vehicle, use this decoder to make sure that it is indeed the exact model that the seller is claiming it is. Once you have verified the Vehicle Identification Number is accurate, you can proceed with your VIN check and learn everything you need to know about that particular car.
You Can Tune Your Car For Maximum Performance!
Are you satisfied with your performance? Your car’s performance, that is? If you are not or if you have wondered how you can crank more power out of your engine, then I have some good news for you: you can do it with an engine tuning programmer. Yes, within minutes you can turn your ordinary passenger car into a road warrior without having to pop the hood or by removing the dashboard. It is a quick, easy, and awesome way to unleash more power from your car’s engine.
The aftermarket parts industry is constantly coming up with everything you need to enhance your vehicle’s look as well as its improve performance. On the performance side of things custom air filters, cold air intakes, and exhaust systems are much sought after options for car enthusiasts. In addition, performance chips are being installed by owners who desire to turn their ordinary cars into something extraordinary.
While performance chips are a great way to increase torque and bang out more horsepower, they are invasive. This means you must either pop the hood or remove the dashboard to locate your current chip, swap it out, and replace it with the new one. Fortunately, technicians have invented tuning modules that work by simply hooking it into your under dash diagnostic connector. Once you are “wired” all you will need to do is answer a series of yes/no questions and the programmer does the rest. When you are done, you can disconnect the programmer and enjoy your now potent vehicle.
Power programmers, including those developed by Hypertech, fit right into the palm of your hand. Each programmer is custom developed for your make/model, so you must specify the vehicle you own or it won’t work for you. Popular vehicles that can benefit from tuning programmer include: the Dodge Ram; Jeep Wrangler, Cherokee, and Gran Cherokee; the Ford “F” series pick ups and Mustang; and several GM models including the Corvette, Firebird, Camaro, and many full size pick up trucks.
There are several benefits in using a power programmer, including:
–Increased horsepower
–Increased torque
–Increased fuel economy – yes, an efficiently tuned engine gets the best fuel mileage.
–Optimized tuning – tune for 87 octane or 91 octane fuel.
No you don’t have to be mechanic or a computer programmer to work with a power tuner. Everything you need is stored right inside your little hand held device. What’s more, if you decide that you want to return your car to its OEM specifications, you can do that in mere moments. Try swapping out a performance chip that quickly!
Of course, power tuners aren’t for everyone. If you are satisfied with the status quo or aren’t looking to get the edge while driving, then you are likely to pass on the experience. For everyone else, a power tuner is an affordable and non invasive way to turn an ordinary passenger car into a true road rocket.
Which is Better – Manual vs Automatic Transmissions?
Settle the Difference between Manual and Automatic Transmissions
Any car enthusiast knows the ultimate difference between a manual and automatic transmission, based on a number of factors. But for those who are simply content on driving around without giving so much thought about their car’s components, these two terms can simply be considered as jargons.
So what are the differences between manual and automatic transmissions?
Operation
Perhaps you’ve encountered various technical definitions between manual and automatic transmissions that you can hardly understand their generic functions. Simply put, manual transmissions mean you have full control with your gears while with automatic you can limit your choices between two pedals. These alone already provide their basic distinction. Manual transmissions work well if you like to be the ultimate master of your vehicle. It gives you more freedom when it comes to maneuvering your car on steep hills or curves. It will also allow you to combat tough weather conditions more comfortably than when your auto has automatic transmission.
It doesn’t mean, however, that automatic transmission is futile. Because it’s very convenient to operate, you can breeze through traffic more easily compared to using automatic transmission. Second, it won’t take you much of a long time to determine how to navigate with automatic transmissions. It’s even like driving your own go-cart.
Costs
Though automatic transmissions mean ease of use, they do eat up too much fuel; thus, if you’re trying to save on fuel, make sure that you’re not settling for automatic transmission. You can save at least 10 percent in fuel economy if you go for manual transmission. Besides, automatic transmissions are known to be ultimately expensive. They have a starting market price of $700.
When it comes to repair and maintenance costs, manual transmissions appear to be more superior. They don’t need too much refining, so you can definitely save huge bucks in your maintenance and repair budget. In fact, there are a number of car manufacturers who believe that manual transmissions don’t need too much in the way of fluid changes. On the other hand, if ever manual transmissions go haywire, they don’t cost a lot to get fixed. The clutch, which is one of the most expensive components of a car and the most labor intensive when it gets damaged, is more maintained easily in manual than in automatic transmission. To make matters worse, if your automatic transmission breaks down somewhere, you have to bring jumper cables with you. Otherwise, you won’t be able to restart your engine. If this doesn’t work, your last recourse will be the towing company.
The Birth of Manumatic Transmissions
During the onset of the twenty-first century, there’s a new transmission method that was introduced by automobile manufacturers. It’s referred to as the manumatic transmission. It is an automatic transmission that possesses certain manual-transmission features. A good example are the luxury cars of Chrysler. It’s definitely automatic, only that you have more control in shifting your gears.
Shopping for the Right Transmission
When you have chosen your own car, make sure that before you actually buy it, you’ve already performed a test drive. This is to ensure that it suits your taste and your current need. You may also have to check on the EPA rating of your vehicle for both manual and automatic transmission. Keep in mind that this is not completely accurate, but at least it can provide you of a good idea on how much fuel your car can use.
Choosing the Right Transmission
In the end, when it comes to choosing which is which, you shouldn’t limit your decision based on pros and cons of each. Rather, think of your car and what you truly need. For example, if you’re going to get an Audi for maximum performance, you may want to consider getting a manual transmission so you can have control over its power. If you like to minimize your movements while you’re driving, especially in the midst of traffic, automatic transmission is your best choice.
The Twenty Fastest Muscle Cars
From the mid to early 1970′s a new breed of cars ruled the American streets. The majority of these were intermediate sized automobiles with large block engines stuffed inside. At first these cars were called “super cars” and over time they became know more accurately as muscle cars. The quarter mile was the performance standard and weekend drag racing became very popular.
Many of these cars pulled weekday duty as commuter vehicles, taking their proud owners to work and school. But, on the weekend the guys at the wheel were full fledged “amateur” dragsters. For the first time (and many would argue the only time) in American automotive history, high performance vehicles were available to the masses. The average Joe with a decent job could go to his local dealership and drive away with a ground pounding, tire smoking muscle car. Additionally, in a time before complicated emission controls and computer chips, an average Joe could actually working on his pride.
As the list of the twenty fastest muscle cars points out, the majority of the beasts had domesticated roots. The Road Runners, Chevelles and Chargers were all basic family cruisers. What made them special was those wonderfully powerful big block engines. Even the Camaros and ‘Cudas were decent transportation for the young man with a couple of small children. Only the Corvettes and the Cobra were initially created as sports cars.
As everyone over this generation knows, the muscle car became extinct in the early 1970′s. Rising fuel costs, rising insurance premiums and new safety concerns marked the end of this era. Today the original muscle cars are one of the hottest automotive collectables. Men of a certain age are aggressively bidding for the car of their youthful dreams.
So take a look at the list and see who really owned the streets when muscle cars reigned supreme. For more information about all the great Muscle Cars of the past visit Muscle Car Facts.
Rank – Model – - ¼ Mile Time and Speed – - Engine – - HP – - TRANS – - Source
1 – 1966 427 Cobra – - 12.20 sec @ 118 mph – - 427 8V – - 425 – - 4-Speed – - CAR CRAFT 11/65
2 – 1966 Corvette 427 – - 12.80 sec @ 112 mph – - L72 427 – - 425 – - 4-Speed – - CAR AND DRIVER 11/65
3 – 1969 Road Runner – - 12.91 sec @ 111 mph – - 440 Six BBL – 390 – - 4-Speed – - SUPER STOCK 6/69
4 – 1970 Hemi Cuda – - 13.10 sec @ 107 mph – - 426 Hemi – 425 – 4-Speed – CAR CRAFT 11/69
5 – 1970 Chevelle SS 454 – - 13.12 sec @ 107 mph – - 454 LS6 – 450 – - 4-Speed – - CAR CRAFT 11/69
6 – 1969 Camaro – - – 13.16 sec @ 110 mph – - 427 ZL1 – - 430 – - 4-Speed – - HI PERFORMANCE 6/69
7 – 1968 Corvette – - – 13.30 sec @ 108 mph – - 427 6V – - 435 – - 4-Speed – - HI PERFORMANCE 5/68
8 – 1970 Road Runner – - 13.34 sec @ 107 mph – - 426 Hemi – - 425 – - automatic – - SUPER STOCK 12/69
9 – 1970 Buick GS Stage I – - 13.38 sec @ 105 mph – - 455 Stage I – - 360 – automatic – - MOTOR TREND 1/70
10 – 1968 Corvette 427 – - 13.41 sec @ 109 mph – - L72 427 – - 425 – - 4-Speed – - CAR AND DRIVER 6/68
11 – 1969 Charger 500 – - 13.48 sec @ 109 mph – - 426 Hemi – - 425 – - 4-Speed – - HOT ROD 2/69
12 – 1968 Charger – - – 13.50 sec @ 105 mph – - 426 Hemi – 425 – - automatic – - CAR AND DRIVER 11/67
13 – 1970 Plymouth Superbird – 13.50 sec @ 105 mph – - 426 Hemi – - 425
14 – 1968 Road Runner – - 13.54 sec @ 105 mph – - 426 Hemi – - 425 – - automatic – - CAR AND DRIVER 1/69
15 – 1973 Trans Am – - 13.54 sec @ 104 mph – - 455 SD – - 310 – - automatic – - HOT ROD 6/73
16 – 1969 Corvette – - – 13.56 sec @ 111 mph – - 427 L88 – - 430 – - automatic – - HOT ROD 4/69
17 – 1969 Super Bee – - 13.56 sec @ 105 mph – - 440 Six Pack – - 390 – - automatic – - HOT ROD 8/69
18 – 1969 Boss 429 Mustang – 13.60 sec @ 106 mph – - Boss 429 – - 375 – - 4-Speed – - HI PERFORMANCE 9/69
19 – 1970 Challenger R/T – - 13.62 sec @ 104 mph – - 440 Six Pack – - 390 – - automatic – - CAR CRAFT 11/69
20 – 1970 Torino Cobra – - 13.63 sec @ 105 mph – - 429 SCJ – - 370 – - automatic – - SUPER STOCK 3/70
Choosing the Right Oil Filter Line for Your Automotive Business
Oil Filter Comparison, what do you know about oil filters? Are you aware of the difference between one and two stage filters? What makes one filter better than another? Is it the Brand Name, style, size, color, engineering? Ever wonder the who what, why, when and where about filters? Here is a picture of some of the types of filters and companies, which make them;
[http://www.frankhunt.com/FRANK/corvette/articles/oilfilterstudy/oilfilterstudy.html]
One of the best comparison studies we have found is this one:
http://www.shoclub.com/lubrication-oil/lubrication-oilpart1.htm
Part three is a very interesting section. Discussing the importance of particulate matter. This is a good study and discusses primarily the best filter in terms of Ford Cars, mostly high performance and the study is an excellent work. If you look closely at this study you will see the differences in choices by a study, which is primarily interested in the performance of a ZR-1.
http://www.zr1specialist.com/HAT%20Web/articles/an_lt5_filter_comparison.htm
What most people fail to understand is that a filter is nearly as important as the choice of oil itself. Having owned many Turbo Charged cars, cars with blowers and various other components many of which use the engine oil to lubricate the rest of the components, which run at much faster RPM and generate much more heat than the engine itself I can appreciate this study which discusses the Trans Am Turbo. Big engine with Turbo, much different needs. If you want to get technical you will find very quickly that liars figure and figures lie. But racing professionals agree to disagree, all understand the significance, but when it comes to the figures, different numbers in charts, graphs and figures mean different things to other people. In my study of these studies I have left out those who do not admit that all data is up for interpretation, conjecture and opinion. Even if they are so convinced themselves they would swear by their findings. Jaime Salinas who works for Bosch is very fair in his comparison and study of studies.
AMSOIL has an interesting page full of charts, which is fair enough but of course is an example of graphs and charts to prove a point. Is Synthetic the way to go? They have done extensive studies which are posted on their website.
You decide. Oil, cars, and engines are a worldwide affair and some people overseas also see things different than us. There are many interesting comparisons and worthy of your reading, worthy of a ‘Google’ search indeed. We want everyone to know that we know the results and the tests and the claims and we are there for our customers. When it comes to protection, we are there for our customers, are you?
Classic Cars in Cuba
Havana is a potent mixture of the old and the new. Modern office buildings punctuate the skyline alongside deteriorating Eastern European residential towers. Ancient vehicles, some with more rust than paint, share the road with newer, shinier models, while horse-drawn carts mingle with motorcycles. Flea markets display Cuba holiday mementos – wooden models of cars built in the 1950s, which are still seen on Cuban streets.
‘Yank tank’, ‘máquina’ ‘cacharro’ and ‘bartavia’ are all words used to describe the American classic cars in Cuba. It is the only place where history and circumstance have combined to enable a whole society to preserve these amazing vehicles and turn them into a national treasure.
About 150,000 classic cars existed at the time of the 1959 Cuban Revolution when the U.S. imposed a trade embargo on Cuba. After this, international trade was made very difficult, so the cars that were present at the time have been nurtured and cared for ever since.
Of the 60,000 classic cars in Cuba, about half are from the 50s, another 25 percent from the 40s and a similar number from the 30s. Brands include Chevrolet, Ford, Cadillac, Buick, Plymouth, Chrysler, Dodge, Willy’s, Oldsmobile and De Soto – vintage models of all of these can be seen on Cuba’s roads today.
Nostalgia
As a clash of cultures and ideologies, few experiences compare with that of rounding a corner in the heart of Old Havana with its crumbling baroque buildings and coming face to face with a gleaming 1955 Thunderbird that looks as if it had just been driven off the lot.
Cubans are increasingly aware of the value of classic cars, particularly when visiting Americans become nostalgic about them. They realise that there is business to be made from hiring them out, and it is therefore possible for those on holiday to Cuba to hire out a classic car for the duration of their stay. Although there are more classic cars in the US overall, an American would have to go to Cuba to see a concentration of the cars filling the streets like a snapshot of 50s USA come to life.
Cuba holiday makers feel they have stepped into a time warp to that perhaps more innocent age, when Americans sported prim and proper outfits and drove shiny, sparkly-wheeled cars in brilliant colours with fins and chrome bumpers. The cars made driving feel special. The size of them and the comfort gave a calm feeling for a time when people were able to take their time and enjoy the good things in life.
Care & Attention
While classic cars are still used for daily transportation, often as taxis, they have also become cherished heirlooms handed down from generation to generation within families, in some cases going all the way back to the 30s.
Most owners of classic cars spend hours applying waxes and polishes and basking in the praise and admiration of passers-by. Some even reminisce about a time when their cars were new, and life itself seemed brighter and as inviting as an open highway.
To own one of these vintages defines who you are, how you spend your time and how you wish to be known, and Cubans will go to incredible lengths to keep their classic cars running. 1950′s bumpers and tailpipes are recreated and myriad other parts are adapted. Steering wheels carved from wood, hub cabs made from aluminium cans and plastic sheets for windows are common. While such shortcuts would be frowned upon in the United States, classic car lovers admire the Cubans’ ingenuity and their ability to keep the cars running.
The Future for Classic Cars in Cuba
Each day these cars get closer to extinction. They are now outnumbered by boxy Russian Ladas, Volga sedans and more recent Eastern European and Japanese imports. But the biggest threats to Cuba’s classic cars are the scarcity of parts and lack of original factory literature to maintain them with uniform standards.
Hopefully they will still be preserved for years to come, even if they become increasingly temperamental with all the alterations they go through. If you’re thinking of hiring a classic car on your Cuba holiday make sure to make a ceremonial splash of rum on the car’s floorboard for good luck!
1967 Chevelle SS For Sale
Finding a 1967 Chevelle SS for sale is a dream that many muscle car enthusiasts hold near and dear to their hearts. While the ’67 Chevelle SS is by no means a perfect car, it’s a wonderful specimen that boasts enough personality to make its flaws endearing.
There were kinks present in the first several years of the Chevelle SS, particularly in the way that the car handled, and driving at top speeds exacerbated these issues. What set the 1967 Chevelle SS for sale apart from those that had come before it were the improvements in this area.
These most basic of these changes was the upgrade from the standard rayon two-ply 7.75×14 tires to low profile F70X14s with nylon belts. Chevy also reconfigured the steering system including the wheel so that grip and steering response were dramatically improved.
The feel in the car when one changes direction, especially at high speed, is what separates the 1967 Chevelle SS most from the 1964-1966 Chevelle SSs. The designers also improved braking with the new front disc brakes that were available as an option along with the purposeful 14-inch slotted wheels that were included standard.
Enthusiasts should note that it is possible to customize the 1964-1966 Chevelle SSs to include similar handling improvements. However, the 1967 Chevelle SS provides a particular handling that one cannot easily match with a simple upgrade, and this is part of the vehicle’s allure.
For the 1967 Chevelle SS for sale, Chevrolet included the same standard transmission, a 3-speed manual. However, most SS buyers opted for the 4-speed transmission, which was available at the time for an additional $105. Precise numbers of 4-speed and 3-speed sales are not available, but it does seem that the non-standard 4-speed is much more prevalent. Chevrolet also offered a 2-speed Powerglide transmission as well as a 3-speed Turbo Hydra-matic option but both of these are rare from today’s perspective.
Chevrolet also included a padded instrument panel and an energy-absorbing steering column due to U.S. safety regulations that the government had enacted the year before. The dashboard was essentially the same one included with the three previous models, which is very bland compared to other muscle cars of the time. For this reason, the dashboard is one of the most popular aspects of interior customization. Chevy did offer an optional tachometer this model year, which they positioned to the left of the steering wheel.
Visually the 1967 Chevelle SS for sale was not remarkably different from the ’66 model. Differences include a reworked bumper and grille that one would not notice without side-by-side comparison. Chevy also included a blackout tail panel, and despite demand for the contrary, the hood louvers remained nonfunctional.
Under the hood, Chevy once again included the 396 cubic-inch V8 engine that hammers out 325 horsepower stock. The L34 engine upgrade was still available for approximately $100, but this engine provided 10 horsepower less than the L34 offered a year earlier. This was because of a GM edict against any car other than the Corvette producing more than one horsepower per 10 pounds of curb weight. The 375-horsepower L78 engine option was still available as a dealer-installed conversion, but no longer publicized. Perhaps for that reason, Chevy sold approximately only 600 of these conversions.
With prices starting at $2,800 for the coupe and $3,000 for the ragtop, the Chevelle SS was only a couple hundred dollars more than other Malibu models. It’s difficult to imagine how anyone passed up a 1967 Chevelle for sale back then.
Check Engine Lights: Myths and Facts
You’re driving along and suddenly your Check Engine Light comes on. What does it mean? Check Engine Light, Check Engine Soon Light, Service Engine Soon Light, Engine Light, Engine Management Light, whatever you want to call it, simply means that your vehicle’s computer system has detected a problem.
Depending on the year, make, and model, it may be related to the engine, the transmission, even the brakes and suspension. There are literally hundreds of reasons a Check Engine Light may appear. The following questions and answers discussion will clarify the truth about Check Engine Lights.
Service Engine Soon Light FAQ:
Can the car be driven? The general rule is: if the Service Engine Soon Light is on, and the car seems to be running ok, you can drive it. However, you should have it checked at your earliest convenience.
If your vehicle is running poorly–bucking, stalling, hesitating, or you just don’t feel safe, tow it. When in doubt always tow it!
The check engine light went out by itself. Is it ok now? Probably not. Check Engine Lights often come and go. Even if the light is out, your vehicle’s computer system will retain information that will allow the problem to be diagnosed. To avoid potential long term issues, get it checked out.
My check engine light stays on. What should I do?
If your check engine light stays on constantly, follow the instructions above, under “Can the car be driven?” Don’t panic.
Can I disconnect the battery, or pull a fuse to reset the service engine soon light? Maybe, but I wouldn’t. Removing the battery cable or an ECM or PCM fuse may clear the code, but it is not universally recommended in the industry. Most manufacturers advise against it. See the Best Way to Reset Check Engine Light Codes below.
What is the Check Engine Light?
The Check Engine Light is a warning light for multiple systems operating in your vehicle. In simplest terms, it’s like an engine management warning light to alert you of a problem. Just like your computer pops up with an “error message window” saying that something’s wrong, your service engine soon light pops up to warn you that it has detected a malfunction: mechanical, technical, software, or otherwise.
How to Reset Check Engine Light?
This is a great question! I get it all the time. See the guide below.
Resetting Check Engine Light:
First, if your Check Engine Light is on, it’s on for a reason. The Check Engine Light indicates that your vehicle’s on-board computers have stored a fault code. There are hundreds of fault codes, any one or more could be stored in the computers memory.
Fault codes contain critical data for accurate diagnoses of the problem.
Sometimes the fault code points directly to a faulty component, allowing for a quick diagnoses and repair. Other times, the code may only indicate a problem circuit and thus extensive diagnostic procedures may be required.
By resetting the Service Engine Soon Light, it erases important fault code data that turned the check engine light on in the first place. Without this critical information, the root problem can not be discerned.
Unfortunately, there is no universally accepted way to safely turn off a check engine light. Even if there was, if the root problem is not addressed, it will come back on.
So whether it’s a Chevrolet Service Engine Soon Light, Camry Check Engine Light, Mighty Max Check Engine Light, or a 1993 Thunderbird Check Engine Light, they require individual procedures to diagnose, repair, and reset the check engine light code.
Following is a Safe and FREE way for resetting check engine light codes.
Best Way to Reset Check Engine Light Codes:
If you’re not interested in diagnosing your truck, SUV or car Check Engine Light, or it’s already fixed, and you just want the engine light out, visit any local repair shop. Most shops will have a universal Check Engine Light Code Reader that can quickly and safely reset, and check engine light trouble codes. It should take about 30 seconds.
Note: European models are better off with a specialist, and some older vehicles may require more time.
Here’s what to do:
Politely ask your local service center (ask a technician if you see one) if they could reset the check engine light with their Check Engine Light Code Reader. They may protest, arguing that the problem must first be diagnosed.
Tell the service representative that you understand fully, and that you appreciate his professionalism. But that you would just like to try resetting the Service Engine Soon Light, and if it comes on again, you’ll come back for a full diagnosis.
Be genuine. Service representatives respond positively to sincerity. If the service center wants to charge you just to reset your Service Engine Light, try another facility.
Alternatively, some parts suppliers such as Napa or AutoZone, will reset your check engine light at no charge. Just be wary of cheap parts and bad advice.
IMPORTANT, check engine light repairs can be quite costly given their technical nature. Service centers can easily hide behind complex technical language to inflate the difficulty of your Check Engine Light concern.
Cheap Project Cars For Sale
If you want to purchase an American muscle car such as a Ford Mustang or a Chevrolet Corvette then now is a good time to do so. If you always wanted to buy the car of your dreams, or maybe you were after a project to work on as a hobby then restoring a muscle car has to be the most rewarding.
Why are they so cheap?
These cars are selling very cheaply these days because of several factors. Firstly, of course, fuel prices. With rapid increases in the cost of gasoline and, as you surely know, a big v8 engine burns gas extremely quickly to say the least, the fact is that many people simply can not afford to run these old cars any longer. Gas consumption is not only a financial matter either.
Secondly, a big factor is the environment. Apart from the incredible amount of fuel combustion, an old big block engine of the classic American muscle cars emit a lot of pollution. Its certainly not environmentally friendly to have an old muscle car as the car you drive day in, day out.
The third main issue is the time factor. These beautiful old machines have become so old, so those that have managed to actually restore them to very good condition would ask high prices, but also to restore muscle every car, there are another 3 forgotten project cars rusting away in garages across the country. They will need some work to become road worthy again, but they may be available at bargain rates.
So is this good or bad news?
Well, the possible good news is that the above concerns mean that many people are now selling off their cars at a lot lower prices than they previously were. This is great news for collectors, restorers and hobbyists repairing project cars. Don’t forget though, be friendly to the environment and use another car for daily use and keep your dream car shows cruising around at weekends or bragging to your friends. In doing so, you can own the car of your dreams, be kind to the environment, as well as save on fuel.
Chevy Suffix Codes – What Are They And How Do I Use Them?
GM, or chevy suffix codes are a very misunderstood part of engine identification, and just as under utilized. Very little thorough information has been available to the average enthusiast because GM never released the chevy suffix codes to the consumer. GM dealerships were likely the only ones who new what the chevy engine suffix code meant, until recently.
Chevy suffix code decoder books have been assembled through the hard work of one man, whose father instilled the importance of tracking the chevy engine suffix codes at a very young age. These decoders are his life’s work.
What are they you ask? Chevy engine suffix codes are a series identification numbers stamped into the Chevy engine block that represent the combined production number of an engine, equipment options and ratings for the engine as well as the option series of car it was built for. The suffix code is made up of the letters trailing the numbers stamped into the block. The number portion of the stamping is the serial number of the engine.
The Chevy engine suffix codes provide some valuable information such as:
The car model or truck.
The year or span of years the suffix code was used.
The cubic inch displacement of the engine.
The horse power rating the engine was built to.
Transmission type used with the engine.
Regular Production Option (RPO) the engine was a part of.
Intake type such as 2 barrel carb, 4 barrel, aluminum etc.
Emissions standards the engine might have been built to meet.
And any other descriptions unique to that engine suffix code.
The classic car restoration enthusiast can use these suffix codes in combination with information provided in Chevy engine casting number guides to ensure his restoration is as close to original specs as possible. Between 1962 and 1968, the VIN number of the vehicle matches the number stamped on the engine, followed by the suffix code. Single suffix code letters were used until 1964 and 2 letter suffix codes were used until 1969, three letters are used from 1970 until now. There a some exceptions to the number of letters in chevy engine suffix codes in each range of years.
Even if your classic Chevy is missing the original engine, it is still possible to use the suffix code located on other parts of the car to determine which engine you should look for as a replacement. Between the combinations of the Chevy engine suffix code, engine casting numbers, and engine casting dates, you should be able to locate the correct engine for your classic car restoration, even if you may never locate the engine with the serial number matching engine stamping.
Here’s a good example of how I did it. I have a 1964 Impala that did not have the original engine, but I knew it originally had a 283. I managed to find a 283 with the “D” suffix code and a casting date of 1964 on it. The serial number doesn’t match, but I know the engine at least belonged in a 64 impala. I probably couldn’t hope for any better than that.
If you are on the hunt for an original engine, the Chevy engine suffix code decoder is a must have. You can use it combined with a cowl tag decoder, Chevy engine casting number decoder, and a model specific factory parts number guide. This is certainly a winning set of reference books for the classic car restorer.